Hedi Slimane’s appointment as creative director of Celine in 2018 sent ripples of excitement and apprehension through the fashion world. His previous work at Saint Laurent, characterized by a distinctly rock-and-roll aesthetic, stood in stark contrast to the sophisticated, minimalist elegance that Phoebe Philo had cultivated at Celine for over a decade. His debut collection was met with a mixed reception, to say the least, with many feeling he had fundamentally altered the brand's DNA. However, his Fall/Winter 2019 collection offered a different narrative, a subtle attempt at a reconciliation, a reimagining of Celine’s heritage, filtered through Slimane’s signature lens. This collection, and its accompanying bag lineup, remains a fascinating study in brand evolution and the enduring appeal of classic design elements.
The Fall/Winter 2019 runway show didn’t burst forth with revolutionary silhouettes or jarring color palettes. Instead, it opened with a sense of quietude, a deliberate pacing that allowed the collection's understated elegance to unfold. A model, her presence commanding yet serene, walked out carrying a bag that immediately set the tone – a structured, understated tote, echoing the brand's past while hinting at a future defined by Slimane’s signature slim silhouettes and refined details. This wasn't a complete break from the past; it was a careful reinterpretation, a conversation between the old Celine and the new.
This careful calibration extended to the entire bag collection. While Slimane's earlier designs had been criticized for a perceived lack of connection to Celine's established identity, the 2019 bags demonstrated a more nuanced understanding of the brand’s legacy. The collection showcased a range of styles, each carrying the unmistakable hallmark of Slimane's design philosophy – clean lines, a focus on meticulous craftsmanship, and a distinct Parisian chic. Yet, within this framework, he incorporated elements that resonated with the house's history, creating a sense of continuity while forging a new path.
One of the most significant elements of the collection was the reimagining of classic bag shapes. While Slimane introduced new designs, many of the bags showcased familiar silhouettes, albeit with subtle updates that reflected his aesthetic. The emphasis on structured shapes, often seen in boxy totes or refined shoulder bags, evoked a sense of timeless elegance, a quality that has always been synonymous with Celine. The use of premium leather, a cornerstone of Celine's identity, further reinforced this connection to the brand's heritage. The choice of leathers, from supple calfskin to more structured options, added a layer of sophistication and versatility to the collection.
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